ARGENTINA


Iguaçu Falls (26.3.-27.3.)

A legend says that Iguazu Falls originated when a jealous forest god, enraged by a warrior escaping downriver by canoe with a young girl, caused the riverbed to collapse in front of the lovers, producing precipitous falls over which the girl fell and, at their base, turned into a rock. The warrior survived as a tree overlooking his fallen lover. The fall's geological origins are more prosaic. In southern Brazil, the Río Iguazú passes over a basalt plateau that ends just above its confluence with the Paraná. Where the lava stopped, at least 1600 cubic meters of water per second plunge over 3km-long edge 70m into the sedimentary terrain below. The most awesome of the approximately 275 cataracts is Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat) - semicircular, deafening and dampening massive waterfall.

Río Iguazu follows the boarder between Brazil and Argentina. Visitors can approach the falls from either side - from the Argentinean side, one can get very close to the falls themselves, while the Brazilian side offers the best panoramic views.

On March 26, after a 22-hour bus ride from Rio de Janeiro, we arrived in Foz de Iguazu. Originally, we planned to stay on the Brazilian side. But as we walked towards the center, we were followed by touts, who kept telling us how important it is for us to stay on the Brazilian side, since there is nothing to do in Puerto Iguazu on the Argentinean side, and that we should really stay in their hotel, as other hotels are dangerous or dirty. Thanks to their perseverance, we soon decided to escape them by taking a bus across the boarder to Argentina. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Puerto Iguazu is a nice little town, very quiet and peaceful, with police that is making sure the tourists are safe and no touts bother them. We checked into a nice little hotel and found a local bakery nearby - an important source of our breakfasts.

We spent the entire next day in the National Park on the Argentinean side of the falls. We walked all the trails leading to different parts of the falls. We also took a boat to the San Martin island, where we enjoyed the best views of the falls. Towards the end of the day, we hopped onto a small train and then followed a boardwalk crossing the wide and seemingly quiet Parana river and leading us all the way to the Devil's Throat waterfalls. It was a beautiful day rich in some amazing views.

On March 28, we set off to admire the falls from the Brazilian side. The Brazilian park was almost too organized and definitely more touristy than the park on the Argentinean side, but the views were excellent. We spent over one hour watching the Devil's Throat from a viewing platform half the way up from the valley floor. Then we had to leave, because we started to have headaches from the tremendous roar. Iguaçu Falls were a truly unique experience.

In the evening, we boarded a bus for yet another long haul - an 18-hour ride to the last destination on our journey around the globe, Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires (28.3.-1.4.)

One of the South America's most sophisticated and appealing cities is the capital of Argentina: exciting Buenos Aires, home to 13 million proud porteños (port city dwellers). Its extensive suburbs and a modern bustling center adorned with numerous elegant older European-style buildings surprises many travelers who expect a more "Latin American" experience. This "Paris of the South" will keep exploring its potential, trying to reestablish the world prominence it once had, while its refined and impeccably dressed citizens maintain their polished self-importance and remain the spirited and gregarious people they have always been.

We arrived in Buenos Aires around noon on March 28. We took the subway to the city center and checked into hotel Alcazar. This hotel, located in a beautiful old house, reminded us of Europe - our next destination....in a few days, we were going to fly home.
In the afternoon, we went for a short stroll through the city. Its highlight was seeing the Casa Rosada (Pink House), the presidential palace and symbol of Buenos Aires. We saw the balcony from which the Perons gave their speeches to the admiring crowds. It was curious to see though, that the building was painted pink only on the front facade and its sides and back were beige.
Pedestrian zone was filled with people. Some watched performers dance passionate Argentinean tango, others listened to little kids playing accordion, or watched mimes that would for some change entertain kids. We walked along Avenida de 9 Julio and passed another famous symbol of Buenos Aires - the Obelisco. It reminded us of the obelisk in Washington D.C., but this one was built in 1936 to commemorate 400 years since the first settlement on Río de la Plata. Not far from the Obelisco, we arrived at world renown Teatro Colón, built in 1908. Until 1973, when the Opera in Sydney opened, this grandiose building was the largest theatre on the southern hemisphere. We bought tickets for the same night in order to get to see the theatre from inside, too. Then we went out for dinner and later returned to the theatre for a jazz concert, a German group playing together with a local jazz band. They played very well, but we had to smile hearing Argentinean jazz sound more like tango - with the typically fast violin and accordion passages... :-)

On March 29, we decided to visit a rather atypical tourist destination - a cemetery. However, this cemetery, the Cemeterio de la Recoleta, is truly unique and really fascinating. Rows and rows of large and elaborate tombs and mausoleums are the place of the last rest for the Argentinean aristocracy. Eva Peron made it to this exquisite place, about which local expression says that "It is cheaper to live extravagantly the entire life than it is to be buried at Recoleta". Regardless the fact that Evita's placement at Recoleta was met with quite some opposition, Evita's tomb is the most visited place of the cemetery today. 

Since this was our last destination, we decided we can do a little bit of shopping and bought some tango CD's and some clothes for Jitka. In the evening, we reminded ourselves of the high-school times when we were regularly attending dancing lessons. We found it impossible to leave Argentina without trying the tango! So we found a 3-hour lesson and tried to learn it. Unfortunately, we soon realized that it would take little longer than 3 hours to master even the basics, but we at least tried. It was fun to watch the instructor show us, the beginners, some advanced steps. 

March 30 was our last day in Argentina and also the last day of our trip around the world. Oh noooooo! 
In the morning, we took a bus to La Boca, a colorful quarter that was once set up by Italian immigrants who worked in the harbor. Houses in the Caminito street are built of simple aluminum sheets, but since every piece is painted in a different vibrant color and all the colors match nicely, the street does not look poor, but rather attractive. Nowadays, La Boca is a tourist attraction and local artist gather here to sell their paintings and photographs. We looked at a few of those, observed yet other tango performers (they did really well) and gave some change to firefighters that were catching tourists and asking for contributions towards a purchase of a new fire truck. We then returned to the city and went for a fancy dinner. The end was nearing.
But it was not there quite yet! The evening culminated with an excellent show of the local musical called Tangeria.  There was little singing in the performance, but lots of tango music and passionate Argentinean dancing. Both the performers and the choreography were just amazing. What an experience! We could not imagine a better conclusion of our stay in Buenos Aires.

On April 1, exactly 16 years since the day we first met, we concluded our journey. We took off for London and later on April 2 landed in Vienna. Marek's parents picked us up and drove us to our home town of Brno in Czech Republic.

After nine months, we circled the globe and returned home.

 

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Argentina


Our route

Population:  37 800 000
Area:   2 800 000  km2

Population growth:   1,13%
GDP per capita: $7 690,-

Literacy rate: 98,6%