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ARGENTINA
Iguaçu Falls (26.3.-27.3.)
A legend
says that Iguazu Falls originated when a jealous forest
god, enraged by a warrior escaping downriver by canoe with a young girl,
caused the riverbed to collapse in front of the lovers, producing precipitous falls over which the girl fell and, at their base, turned
into a rock. The warrior survived as a tree overlooking his fallen
lover. The fall's geological origins are more prosaic. In southern
Brazil, the Río Iguazú passes over a basalt plateau that ends just
above its confluence with the Paraná. Where the lava stopped, at least
1600 cubic meters of water per second plunge over 3km-long edge 70m into
the sedimentary terrain below. The most awesome of the approximately 275
cataracts is Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat) -
semicircular, deafening and dampening massive waterfall.
Río Iguazu follows the boarder
between Brazil and Argentina. Visitors can approach the falls from either
side - from the Argentinean side, one can get very close to the falls
themselves, while the Brazilian side offers the best panoramic views.
On March 26, after a 22-hour bus ride from Rio de
Janeiro, we arrived in Foz
de Iguazu.
Originally, we planned to stay on the Brazilian side. But as we walked
towards the center, we were followed by touts, who kept telling us how
important it is for us to stay on the Brazilian side,
since there is nothing to do in Puerto Iguazu on the Argentinean side,
and that we should really stay in their hotel, as other hotels are dangerous or dirty.
Thanks to their perseverance, we soon decided to escape them by taking a bus
across the boarder to Argentina. It
turned out to be an excellent choice. Puerto Iguazu is a
nice little town, very quiet and peaceful, with police that is making sure
the tourists are safe and no touts bother them. We checked into a nice little hotel and found a
local bakery nearby - an important source of our breakfasts.
We spent the entire next day in
the National Park on the Argentinean side of the falls. We
walked all the trails leading to different parts of the falls. We also took a
boat to the San Martin island, where we enjoyed the best views
of the falls. Towards the end of the day, we hopped onto a small train and then followed a
boardwalk crossing the wide and seemingly quiet Parana river and leading
us all the way to the Devil's Throat waterfalls. It was a beautiful
day rich in some amazing views.
On March 28, we set off to admire the
falls from the Brazilian side. The Brazilian park was
almost too organized and definitely more touristy than the park on the
Argentinean side, but the views were
excellent. We spent over one hour watching the Devil's Throat from a
viewing platform half the way up from the valley floor. Then we
had to leave, because we started to have headaches from the tremendous roar.
Iguaçu Falls were a truly unique experience.
In the evening, we boarded a bus
for yet another long haul - an 18-hour ride to the last destination on our
journey around the globe, Buenos Aires.
Buenos Aires (28.3.-1.4.)
One of the South America's most
sophisticated and appealing cities is the capital of Argentina: exciting
Buenos Aires,
home to 13 million proud porteños (port city dwellers). Its extensive
suburbs and a modern bustling center adorned with numerous elegant older
European-style buildings surprises many travelers who expect a more
"Latin American" experience. This "Paris of the South"
will keep exploring its potential, trying to reestablish the world
prominence it once had, while its refined and impeccably dressed
citizens maintain their polished self-importance and remain the spirited
and gregarious people they have always been.
We arrived in Buenos Aires around
noon on March 28. We took the subway to the city center and checked into
hotel Alcazar. This hotel, located in a beautiful old house, reminded us
of Europe - our next destination....in a few days, we were going to fly
home.
In the afternoon, we went for a short stroll through the city. Its
highlight was seeing the Casa Rosada (Pink House), the
presidential palace and symbol of Buenos Aires. We saw the balcony from
which the Perons gave their speeches to the admiring crowds. It was
curious to see though, that the building was painted pink only on the
front facade and its sides and back were beige.
Pedestrian zone was filled with people. Some watched performers dance
passionate Argentinean tango, others listened to little kids playing
accordion, or watched mimes that would for some change entertain kids.
We walked along Avenida de 9 Julio and passed another famous symbol of
Buenos Aires - the Obelisco. It reminded us of the obelisk
in Washington D.C., but this one was built in 1936 to commemorate 400
years since the first settlement on Río de la Plata. Not far from the
Obelisco, we arrived at world renown Teatro Colón, built
in 1908. Until 1973, when the Opera in Sydney opened, this grandiose
building was the largest theatre on the southern hemisphere. We bought
tickets for the same night in order to get to see the theatre from
inside, too. Then we went out for dinner and later returned to the
theatre for a jazz concert, a German group playing together with a local
jazz band. They played very well, but we had to smile hearing Argentinean
jazz sound more like tango - with the typically fast violin and accordion
passages... :-)
On March 29, we
decided to visit a rather atypical tourist destination - a cemetery.
However, this cemetery, the Cemeterio de la Recoleta, is
truly unique and really fascinating. Rows and rows of large and
elaborate tombs and mausoleums are the place of the last rest for the Argentinean
aristocracy. Eva Peron made it to this exquisite place, about which
local expression says that "It is cheaper to live extravagantly the
entire life than it is to be buried at Recoleta". Regardless the
fact that Evita's placement at Recoleta was met with quite some opposition,
Evita's tomb is the most visited place of the cemetery today.
Since this was our last
destination, we decided we can do a little bit of shopping and bought
some tango CD's and some clothes for Jitka. In the evening, we reminded
ourselves of the high-school times when we were regularly attending
dancing lessons. We found it impossible to leave Argentina without
trying the tango! So we found a 3-hour lesson and tried to learn it.
Unfortunately, we soon realized that it would take little longer than 3
hours to master even the basics, but we at least tried. It was fun to
watch the instructor show us, the beginners, some advanced steps.
March 30
was our last day in Argentina and also the last day of our trip around
the world. Oh noooooo!
In the morning, we took a bus to La Boca, a colorful
quarter that was once set up by Italian immigrants who worked in the harbor.
Houses in the Caminito street are built of simple aluminum
sheets, but since every piece is painted in a different vibrant color
and all the colors match nicely, the street does not look poor, but
rather attractive. Nowadays, La Boca is a tourist attraction and local
artist gather here to sell their paintings and photographs. We looked at
a few of those, observed yet other tango performers (they did really
well) and gave some change to firefighters that were catching tourists
and asking for contributions towards a purchase of a new fire truck. We
then returned to the city and went for a fancy dinner. The end was
nearing.
But it was not there quite yet! The evening culminated with an excellent
show of the local musical called Tangeria. There was
little singing in the performance, but lots of tango music and
passionate Argentinean dancing. Both the performers and the choreography
were just amazing. What an experience! We could not imagine a better
conclusion of our stay in Buenos Aires.
On April 1, exactly 16 years since
the day we first met, we concluded our journey. We took off for London
and later on April 2 landed in Vienna. Marek's parents picked us up and
drove us to our home town of Brno in Czech Republic.
After nine months, we circled the globe and returned home.
More
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Argentina

Our route
Population: 37 800 000
Area: 2 800 000 km2
Population growth:
1,13%
GDP per capita: $7 690,-
Literacy rate: 98,6%
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