CHILE

Santiago de Chile (19.3.-20.3.)

Santiago is a metropolis with 4.5 million inhabitants. In downtown, one keeps wondering if they are in Europe or in the USA. Cobblestone streets with open-air cafés and colonial palaces mix in with modern steel-and-glass high-rise buildings, shopping malls and fast-food restaurants.

We landed in Santiago on March 19 at around noon, after a ten-hour flight from Auckland, New Zealand. It was a direct flight that passed very close to the southern-pole, but not close enough for us to be able to see Antarctica. We used a new strategy and arranged for a hotel directly at the airport, which turned out to be a very good choice. We took a public bus to the city, found the hotel and bought some food for dinner, but due to the jet-lag, we crashed to our beds soon after. 

Next day, after a good breakfast in the hotel courtyard, we set off to explore the city. High-rise buildings, banks and many buses contributing to the already bad air-pollution above the city, were the first picture we saw. However, the pedestrian zone, encompassing several blocks around the city center, was very pleasant and filled with people. Chileans gather there to watch tango performers or sit at tables in front of numerous cafes and ice-cream shops. We would guess that Santiago is the city with highest ratio of ice-cream shops per inhabitant in the world. And they sure know how to make ice-cream!!!
Plaza de Armas is the typical South-American main square of the city, where people come to rest and socialize. Some chill out in the shade of palm trees and feed pigeons, others come directly from work, still in their suits, to play a game of chess.
Not far from Plaza de Armas, we crossed the river Ría Mapocho. It looked more like a sewer than a river. On the other side, we entered a totally different part of the city - poor, dusty, dirty. It immediately reminded us of Lima, where the contrast between the developed side on one side of the river also seriously contrasted with the poverty on the other side.
We quickly crossed back and then headed for the Santa Lucía hill (630m high). There used to be a hermitage, a monastery and later a military fortress on the top. Today, very little remains from those times, but a new gate and magnificent staircases welcome the visitors to this hill park that became popular with young couples as a place for their romantic dates. One can oversee a big part of the city form the top of the hill, but the not-so-distant Andes remain hidden behind the curtain of dense smog.

Valle de Maipo (21.3.)

We could not accept the fact that we would not visit the Andes at all on our trip. Especially since we originally planned to spend more than two months in these majestic mountains of South America. Thus, on Sunday, March 21 we decided to at least pay them a short visit. We took a local bus and after two hours we reached a small town of San José de Maipo, about 60km from Santiago. The town lies in Valle de Maipo, popular weekend destination for people from the city. The air is much cleaner here and the higher altitude offers more pleasant climate. We stopped at the Information Center on the Plaza de Armas (where else - perhaps every town in the spanish-speaking South America has its own Plaza de Armas with church and a park) and asked for "directions to the mountains". We hiked on a dirt road leading to one of the famous ski resorts. We ascended from about 900m to 1350m and were absorbing the views and ambiance of the mountains. Andes! We made it there!
Later, we returned to Santiago and spent the evening chatting with a Dutch couple in the hotel garden. They just finished their 9-month bicycling trip from Ecuador to the southern tip of Chile. What a way to explore the world!

Sangiago de Chile (22.3.)

Monday, March 22. It is a business day, offices are open. The pressure is rising. Tomorrow morning, we fly to Rio de Janeiro, but we do not have our Brazilian visa yet. We could not get it before leaving for the trip, since its validity are three months only. We tried to arrange for it in New Zealand, but unsuccessfully, since the embassy in New Zealand can only issue Brazilian tourist visas to New Zealand citizens. We were promised via an email communication that the Brazilian consulate in Santiago would help us, but one never knows. In the waiting room, there was a big sign on the wall: "It takes 48 hours to issue visas. We are unable to provide any faster service. Do not ask for it." Hmmm, that was not a good start! The official we talked to did not remember any email and pointed our attention to this big sign, when we asked for same-day visa issuance. It took about one hour of broken-Spanish communication to make them agree to help us. They did. By the end of the day, we had Brazilian visas in our passports. We were even left with a few hours to watch people play chess at Plaza de Armas and enjoy our taste of the excellent Chilean ice-cream.

As our trip was reaching its end, we were becoming more and more nostalgic and frequently played back our memories. Our stay in Santiago was very relaxing. The next story well depicts the ambiance of our evenings, spent in the garden of our hotel :

"Every day in the evening, we leave our hotel and walk to a close-by grocery store to buy some food for dinner. Every day, as we pass by a narrow empty lot between two residential houses, we see an old woman pushing some food through a fence. By the time we are on our way back, there are more then twenty cats eating her food and watching this lady through the fence. Soon, everything disappears in the darkness of the night.

Later last night, we were having our dinner in a small garden behind our hotel. Salmon and rice, accompanied by good Chilean wine. For being in the middle of a metropolis, it was surprisingly quiet. As we started to eat, I looked up into the sky and despite the light pollution above the city immediately noticed the Southern Cross. Before I managed to recall the first time I saw it - just below Machu Picchu in Peru - a bright star "fell" from the sky.  I made a wish...."

 

More photos

Chile


Our route

Population:  15 500 000
Area:   756 000  km2

Population growth:   1,09%
GDP per capita: $4 640,-

Literacy rate: 98,9%