NEW ZEALAND

 

Most tourists come to New Zealand because of its diverse, beautiful and wild scenery. There is something for everybody's taste - high mountains with glaciers, green rolling hills with herds of sheep, wineries, lakes, wild rivers, volcanoes, geysers, hot springs, fiords, beaches, the sea...and more. As of this year, however, there is also a new kind of visitor - the fan of the Oscar-winning movie trilogy The Lord of the Rings, who comes to visit the country where the movie was made. (The most devoted ones are headed to the exact locations of the now dismantled movie sets.) We originally planned to spend six weeks in New Zealand, but due to cutting our trip short, ended up staying only two. While that allowed us to sample the beaten track, we unfortunately did not have enough time to get away from the crowds and explore the quiet backcountry. So even though our experience has still been great, we would like to come back one day. 

Christchurch (7.3.)

It was cold and rainy when we landed in Christchurch. Therefore, we decided not to spend much time there and escape into the nature. We left as soon as we rented a car and consulted local Visitor Center (which happened only the next day after our arrival). Then we started our journey into the heart of South Island. We drove through the most typical scenery of New Zealand - the green hills with pastures covered with thousands of sheep. That night, we camped at one of the many beautiful and big lakes of this country, Lake Tekapo. We slept well - in our tent under tall pine trees.

Mount Cook (8.3.)

The next morning, we ascended into a valley under the highest peak in Austro-Asia,  Mount Cook (about 3750 meters above sea level). On the way, we drove along the shore of another beautiful, more than 25 kilometers long lake. We cooked lunch and then spent the whole afternoon exploring the valley. We hiked along a wild river with muddy water that is being fed from surrounding glaciers. Now and then, a part of a glacier would break off and fall down into the valley, making a thunder-like sound. Around us were bushes of tough alpine grass and many alpine flowers. Leaves started to turn. Fall was coming. (It was 15-20 degrees Celsius during the day and about 10 degrees at night.)

 

Queenstown (9.3.)

Next morning, we decided to continue our journey across the island, even though there was heavy rain in the forecast for the western part of the island. It turned out to be a good choice; we had a beautiful, sunny day. We drove through barren brown mountains covered only with short, drying grass. We stopped just after Lindis Pass to have a lunch. We enjoyed the surrounding scenery so much that we decided to spend some time wondering around. We soon found a trail that led us to the top of the closest mountain. We were nicely surprised by a breathtaking view from its top - green valley below us and many mountain ridges in front of us. It was a nice stop.
In the evening, we arrived in Queenstown, the tourist center of the South Island. There were too many foreigners and hotels in that town, so we decided not to stay long. Yet we had to admire its surroundings - the lake with sailing boats, lush hills with luxury houses around and the rugged rocky mountains called The Remarkables as a backdrop.

Te Anau (10.3.)

We spent most of the next day driving to Te Anau, a town located in the south-west part of the island and not far from the west coast. It is the gate to the nearby Fiordlands, a national park stretching far south and north along the coast. When we arrived there, it rained very hard, so we decided to find a hotel room instead of camping on the flooded grass. (It was not easy to find an affordable room, as most hotels were totally full. New Zealand clearly was not ready for the influx of the many movie fans.) We took an afternoon nap in the hotel and then went for a late afternoon stroll along the Te Anau Lake when the rain stopped. We visited a small bird ZOO in a lakeshore park, where we saw the keas for the first time in our lives. Kea is a mountain parrot that does not fly. You can find it only on the South Island of New Zealand and nowhere else in the world. We had a chance to see them out in the wild later during our trip.

Milford Sound (11.3.)

The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound is very scenic and leads through valleys carved by glaciers. Surrounding mountains are covered with beech forests. Above the trees rise bare rocky peaks, some topped with glaciers. We made several stops along the road, including one for a 3h hike up the Key Summit to get superb views of the beauty around us. In the afternoon, we arrived in Milford Sound and were so taken by its unsurpassed atmosphere that we decided to pay for the quite expensive boat ride through this fiord to the ocean and back (22km one way). It was definitely worth it. We were surrounded by sheer rocks, some up to 1700 meters high. Numerous waterfalls, the biggest one 160m tall, were falling down the walls into the ocean. Breathtaking beauty. We were thankful for a wonderful, sunny day, since it rains most of the time there.
On our way back to Te Anau, we passed through an amazing tunnel - for the second time that day. It cuts right through an immense, 1200m thick rock and is very steep. We believe that we read that it took almost 20 years to build it. Hats down.
Half way into the 120km drive, we stopped on a meadow near a river to camp there overnight. There was an older New-Zealander couple already camping and cooking dinner there. They invited us to join them for a great meal of local wild mushrooms and wine. He was a chatty medicine professor and a devoted fisherman, she was a nice psychologist. We had a wonderful talk about New Zealand, the Australians, Mr. Bush and the rest of the world and then watched the sky with bright stars, including the Southern Cross.

Kepler Trek (12.3.)

Kepler Trek is one of the best known Great Walks. It takes four days to walk the entire trek, but we were able to save only one day for it. Since we wanted to see as much of it as possible, we kept going as far as we could and turned back only after reaching the highest point of the entire trek. We returned just before dark. We spent 10 hours on the trail and got well beyond the first hut. Jitka decided to take a break there while Marek ran up the Luxmore Mountain, the highest peak of the trek. He walked 34km that day and Jitka did 28km. We both got quite tired on our way down, but our chocolate reserve saved us.
The trail was very scenic. It starts by following the shore of Lake Te Anau and then climbs through a mystic beech forest with trees covered in moss and lichen. Above the tree line were alpine meadows. From there, we could see snow-caped mountain ridges in the distance and the deep blue waters of lake Te Anau in the valley below us.

West coast (13.-14.3.)

Since our next target was the Abel Tasman park on the northern tip of the South Island, we spent one and half days on the road, driving to the north along the west coast. On the first day, we made a stop in Queenstown (to buy groceries and spend too much time in an Internet cafe) and then stopped again at the beautiful lakes Wanaka and Hawea. In the evening, we reached the Tasman Sea and set up our tent in a pleasant campground on the shore of a small lake. The second day, we simply could not drive by the Fox Glacier a Franz Josef Glacier without stopping there and spent about one hour visiting each of them. They make their way from high peaks all the way down to the sea level. By the evening, we reached Motueka, a town on the coast south of Abel Tasman, and grabbed one of the last tent sites in one of the local campgrounds. (Again, too many tourists everywhere.)

Abel Tasman (15.3.)

The long drive was rewarded by a wonderful day in the Abel Tasman park, where we sampled yet another of the Great Walks - again in one day. This one is very different, as it does not climb into mountains, but stretches along a beautiful part of the coast. It cuts through rain forests to emerge on beaches and then dive back into the green hills again. We took a water taxi about 16km in along the coast and then walked back to the starting point.
The day started in a strange way when the transportation company asked us to put on life jackets and board a motor boat that was parked in front of their agency and hooked to a small tractor. But then we understood. It was low tide. The tractor pulled us into the water and then carefully launched the boat with the 20 passengers in it.
There is a whole community of backpackers exploring the world. During our journey, we met several people, mostly young couples in their 20s or 30s, who were also on a trip around the globe. It happened to us twice that we met a party more than once. At an intersection on the Abel Tasman trek, we literally ran into a Dutch couple that we first met in Thailand seven months earlier. We shared a few travel stories, agreed that Asia was our and their favorite continent to visit and then parted again looking forward to more adventures.
That evening, we departed South Island on a night ferry and landed in Wellington late at night.

Wellington (16.3.)

In Wellington, we first had to find a guidebook for the countries that we were going to visit next in South America and then buy groceries for the remaining few days of camping. When done, we went to "Te Papa", a national museum with very interesting exhibitions about the history of New Zealand, the Maori culture (Maori are the native inhabitants of New Zealand) and about the history of coexistence of Maori and European settlers. Later in the afternoon, we left Wellington and drove to the center of the North Island. We camped not far from lake Taupo, the largest lake of the island and one of the starting points for trips to Tongariro National Park.

Around lake Taupo (17.3.)

It rained all day on the 17th of March, so we could not take off for the planned one-day Tongariro Crossing hike. Instead, we explored the area around lake Taupo. The North Island is very volcanically active and there is a geothermal area in the middle of the island. There are colorful lakes, geysers, hot springs. But our favorite was a large mud pool. It looked like a huge bubbling pot that irregularly sprayed geysers of mud into the air.
This geothermal area is also where tourist can get acquainted with the original Maori culture - most practically by visiting a culture show. The show we went to took place in a replica of a typical Maori village. We were welcomed by a group of warriors, whose dance looked so threatening that if we did not know it was a welcome dance, we would have had run away. After a short walk through the village where performers simulated daily live in a Maori settlement, about one hour long dancing and singing show followed. The show also included demonstrations of traditional household items and weapons and took place in the communal house that is an essential of every Maori village and is called the "marae". Then we had dinner, traditionally prepared in an earthen oven, but there was nothing traditional about the way it was served - it felt very much like an American-style restaurant with the "eat fast and get out quick" service attitude. However, we took an opportunity to talk to a Maori carver, who had a small shop set just outside the restaurant. He told us many interesting stories about the history and culture of his people, explained the art of carving and shared several Maori legends with us. 

Tongariro Crossing (18.3.)

During the night, rain ceased and the next morning welcomed us with blue sky. We were ready for perhaps the most beautiful - and certainly the most popular - one-day trek on New Zealand, the Tongariro Crossing.  This trail is a part of yet another Great Walk and starts low in the pastures, but quickly climbs through areas of lava flows high up onto a plateau, from which rise several volcanoes. We have been to a few volcanic areas before, but this place had the most charm and mystery in it. Red Crater at about the mid-point of the trek was the most impressive one we have ever seen - its deep red and black colors were really vibrant. We also climbed up the Pukekaikiore volcano, the highest peak in the area. It was a hard 2-hour climb up very steep slopes with unstable ground, but our effort was rewarded at the top with a beautiful view of a large white- and red-colored crater. Even though low clouds rolled in quickly and stayed for couple hours in the morning, the weather remained stable with some sun and no rain for the entire day.
This 23km-long trek was a grand finale of our stay in New Zealand.

Auckland (8.3.)

On our last day in New Zealand, we just made an uninspiring drive to Auckland to catch a 6pm flight to South America, the last continent on our trip around the world.

 

Notes about New Zealand:

We felt that New Zealanders were very nice and hospitable people.

In New Zealand we rented a car and camped all but one rainy night. There is an abundance of campsites and private camps are very well equipped. Standard equipment includes showers, a laundry room with one or more washers and one or two dryers and a large kitchen with several stoves, tables, chairs and a fridge. 

Since we decided to visit some of the most popular areas, we met many tourists. However, locals mentioned to us that there are many mountain ridges and valleys and many treks that are not very far from the beaten track, yet they are quiet and remain undiscovered by tourists. Next time we go to New Zealand, we will search for those.

 

More photos

 

New Zealand


Our route

Population:  3 900 000
Area:   270 500  km2

Population growth:   1,12%
GDP per capita: $13 030,-

Literacy rate: 99%