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KENYA Nairobi (13.-16.1.2004) On January 12, as we were heading
to the airport in Prague, Until the 1890s, Nairobi was just an isolated swamp. But then it quickly developed into the administrative nerve-center of the new Uganda Railway. In 1901, the capital of the British Protectorate was moved here from Mombassa and the future of the city on the swamp was assured. The colonial government built some grand hotels to accommodate first tourists to Kenya - big game hunters shooting the country's tame wildlife. However, most European buildings in downtown were replaced with high-rises after the declaration of independence in 1963. Today, Nairobi is home to 2,5 Millions of people of different social status - from the poorest living in the shanty towns on the outskirts of the city to the wealthy British immigrants with their luxury homes. While downtown is very clean with office buildings and dressed-up business men and women, the dusty streets only half a mile away are overflowing with matatu (public transportation vans with tiny seats in several rows), people in dirty shirts and pants and kids asking for money. Here, tourists have to be on constant watch for pickpockets. We spent three days in Nairobi. We tried to come up with an itinerary for our stay in Kenya and Tanzania (visiting travel agencies, car rental places and reading guidebooks). We also arranged for our Tanzanian visas and visited the National Museum. Then we started our exploration of East Africa by visiting Rift Valley. This rift stretches through Africa from the north to the south. Till today, it is a volcanically active area. We explored it from the towns of Naivasha and Nakuru. Naivasha (17.-19.1.) On January 17, we took a matatu
to After a good night sleep, we took off for a one-day 22km trek to and around the volcano Longonot. The part of the trail that went around the perimeter of the crater (10km) and climbed on several peaks was pretty challenging - narrow, steep and slippery. But our hard work was worth the beautiful views into the wide Rift Valley and the crater of the volcano, now covered with grown trees. We also met two young Masai boys who were hunting in the area. Their spears looked somewhat scary, but the guys turned out to be friendly. They looked very nice with their red-and-blue clothes, beaded collars and earrings. Nakuru (20.-21.1.) On the 20th, Nairobi (22.1.) On the 22nd, we returned to Nairobi and took a bus to Tanzania the next day. _ _ _ _ _ Nairobi (15.2.) About three weeks later, on the
14ht of February in the evening
Notes: Streets of Kenya are always full of people. But their movements are not as chaotic as they were in India. In contrary, life in Africa is much slower. People seem to be more patient and perhaps more organized. When waiting for a matatu or bus, they form a line instead of trying to push their way through. There were private cars in Nairobi, but one could see only matatus and buses outside of the capital. For most locals, a motorbike and sometimes even a bike is too expensive. Potatoes were always part of local diet. It seems that the most favorite current dish are french fries. Many times that is all Kenyans will have for lunch - fries and ketchup. One can also always buy grilled chicken or stew (locals call it "fried beef"). Ugali is a traditional side dish - it has the consistency of cream of wheat, but is made of corn flour and is white in color. Very popular are also eggs - fried or hard boiled and vegetarian side dishes, especially spinach and a mix of shredded carrots and cabbage. Kenyans made a very mixed impression on us. We met several very nice and open people - hotel and restaurant staff, tourist agents or even some touts on the street - who were very helpful and friendly. Some of them seemed even more friendly than anybody we met in the overall friendly Asia. But we also came across many people who behaved hostilely towards us. Unfortunately, our overall impression was more on the negative side. On the other hand, our point of view might be skewed, since we visited only very touristy areas where people are generally more spoiled and raging.
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Kenya Population: 31
000 000 Population growth:
1,15% Literacy rate: 95,4%
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our train traveled trough beautiful
snow-covered country. We flew to Amsterdam in the afternoon and then caught
a night flight to Nairobi. We did not sleep at all due to strong
turbulences. Several times it felt like the aircraft is falling directly
down for too long... It was a relief to step down on the earth again in
Nairobi. Africa welcomed us with a warm and sunny morning. After night
rainfall, we could still smell water in the air.
Hell's Gate.
Matatu operators are very skilled in packing 4-5 people into every row
of three seats. Half an hour in this four-row packed vehicle in the
temperature of 35C was quite exhausting. The experience was further
enhanced by the fact that the driver drove as if he had stolen the car
and was on a run.
we
took a "matatu" to the town of Nakuru and arranged for a
one-day safari for the next day. We spent 6 hours driving throughout the
park around lake Nakuru. There were four of us and a guide
in a van with a roof that could be easily raised, so that the passengers
can stand in the van, look out and take pictures of the wildlife. We saw
an unbelievable number of different animals - zebras, giraffes, white
and black rhinos, African buffalos, gazelles, antelopes, hyraxes and
even two leopards. But the most impressive moment was when we got close
to the tens of thousands of large white pelicans and flamingos on the
shore of the lake. We could not see the end of their flocks! The afternoon was an amazing introduction to the beauty of
African safaris.
,
we returned from Tanzania to Kenya and visited Nairobi the last time. On
the 15th, we went to the famous Bomas of Kenya dance show.
Yes, it was touristy, but we still enjoyed it very much. Every dance was
different - from a different tribe, danced in different traditional
clothes. We also walked through the interesting models of tribal
villages nearby.